Archive for the 'Photo diary' Category

Occupy Wall Street: photo diary, Times Square, 10/15/11

October 16, 2011

I’ve been following the Occupy Wall Street movement since it emerged last month, always with the nagging sense that the mainstream media wasn’t conveying the essence of it properly. The movement really escalated while I was in Italy the last two weeks — with 700 arrests on the Brooklyn Bridge, a rally at City Hall on October 5 that drew 30,000 participants (including several key labor unions), and increasing tension about the occupation of Zuccotti Park in Liberty Square. So when the call went out for people to gather in Times Square yesterday (while similar actions took place all over the globe), it seemed like a good opportunity to show up and (as my friend Jonathan Lerner, an experienced ’60s radical leftist, puts it) “get a sense of the meeting.” I’m so glad I did.

The big question mark about Occupy Wall Street has been: what is the intention? what are the demands? It’s clearly emerged from a general sense of frustration and rebellion, the feeling that something’s got to shift. The skeptical part of me always gets concerned when political rallies try to rope in too many issues. But actually being in the midst of the energy, I completely understood: this is a movement whose core issue is economic injustice. And it’s a huge issue, very difficult to tackle. What that means is a little different for each of us, so to name one target is reductive. Change has got to start somewhere. The civil rights movement in the ’60s tackled the impossibly gigantic social injustice of racial segregation by starting with bus seats and lunch counters. This movement is starting by Occupying Wall Street. Here’s an irony that tickles me: for decades the rest of the world has been inundated with images from American media as the norm for representation, but this movement clearly takes its inspiration from Arab Spring, specifically the gatherings in Cairo’s Tahrir Square that brought down the Mubarak regime. Just show up, people, and something’s bound to happen.

I showed up a little after 5:00, and for the first hour or so, the mood was low-key, sort of like a big party, everybody looking around expectantly, wondering what happens next. The main action going on was people holding up signs so that other people could take pictures and post them online. There was no central focal point, but Duffy Square was the nucleus. The police had blocked off the bleachers with barricades. A ragtag marching band pumped out tunes. Street performers on stilts entertained. I ran into David Denby, an old colleague from Boston newspaper days, and we noted the diversity of the gathering — largely but not completely white, youngsters but also oldsters (like us). And of course mixed in with the tourists and everyday Times Square inhabitants buying theater tickets at TKTS were the usual array of nutjobs happy to have a larger-than-usual audience, like the guy with the enormous crucifix bellowing “Come to Jesus!” steps away from the Naked Cowboy posing for smirky photos with pretty girls.

The energy changed enormously with the arrival of 5000-6000 folks who marched up Sixth Avenue from Union Square. Instead of just milling around, they’d been moving and chanting, and they were charged up. “Whose street? Our street!” “Show me what democracy looks like/This is what democracy looks like!”

The police presence also intensified with the new arrivals. Half a dozen policeman on horseback made a dramatic entrance and zeroed in on the corner of 46th Street and Broadway.

Tension zoomed high, with the police using metal barriers to try to contain the crowd. I heard a cop on his cel phone saying, “They want to take over the street and block traffic. We can’t have that.” Right, the people are exercising their first amendment rights to assemble peacefully and to express outrage at economic injustice, and you’re concerned about smooth flow of traffic. The skittish horses made everyone very nervous — those things are dangerous weapons. Suddenly, there was a flare-up, pushing and shoving at the barriers on 46th Street and the cops fanned out in all directions pushing people with the metal barriers. Apparently, there were some arrests. A middle-aged woman near me got knocked down and hit her head on the pavement badly.

It started to look like one of those ugly us vs. them confrontations with the police. Cameras everywhere. Huge amount of testosterone and action-movie swagger on display. I saw one cop who looked exactly like a mad dog straining at his leash, looking for a fight. And there are always a few people in the crowd who unwisely stir things up — I watched a woman pointing a flag on a short sharp stick at the Mad Dog Cop from inches away. Taunting a frightened animal is a good way to get bit. The collective chant rang out across the intersection: “Who are you protecting? Who are you protecting? Who are you protecting?” That thought actually seemed to have a sobering impact on the police, and things settled down a bit. What were they protecting? I’d been standing on the west side of Times Square looking east, and when I turned around I suddenly understood what they were protecting.

Once the energy peaked, the question became: how to dissolve this gathering sensibly. It was getting cold, I was underdressed, and I didn’t want to get penned in by the barricades so I started heading home. Unlike the blue-shirt cops, the white-shirt superior officers seemed to keep a level head — the guy with the bullhorn here addressed the crowds as “Ladies and gentlemen” and managed to keep people and car traffic moving.

There was plenty of potential for tension and clashing — I heard that the cops were prepared to make plenty of arrests and were authorized to use tear gas to clear Times Square. That didn’t happen. Occupy Wall Street dispersed to a general assembly in Liberty Park and an occupation party in Washington Square Park. All in all, it felt powerful and triumphant. Walking through the crowd, I felt excited. I saw a woman sitting inside a blinking white hula hoop holding a sign that said, “Live in love not in fear.”

I went home and read the Occupied Wall Street Journal, with Naomi Klein’s inspiring October 6 speech — I encourage you to read the whole issue online (see instructions here). An editorial note titled “No list of demands” sums it all up:

“We are speaking to each other, and listening. This occupation is first about participation.

Tens of thousands of New Yorkers streamed into Foley Square on Wednesday — labor unions rolled out, students walked out. The occupation of Wall Street grew to resemble the city we live in.

What race, age, religion, occupation did we represent? None of them. All of them.

Barricaded in by steel pens, surrounded by a thousand cops and NYPD helicopters above, we saw our power reflected in their need to control us. But just as this is our movement, it is our narrative too.

The exhausted political machines and their PR slicks are already seeking leaders to elevate, messages to claim, talking points to move on. They, more than anyone, will attempt to seize and shape this moment. They are racing to reach the front of the line.

But how can they run out in front of something that is in front of them? They cannot.

For Wall Street and Washington, the demand is not on them to give us something that isn’t theirs to give. It’s ours. It’s on us. We aren’t going anywhere. We just got here.”

Photo diary: Tuesday in Ravenna

October 11, 2011

our tour guide, Luciana, led us around town on her bicycle

first stop: the Basilica di Sant'Apollinare Nuovo with its spectacular mosaics

mosaics being Ravenna's claim to fame and major industry, there are studios all over town -- we stopped into one tiny storefront and got to see up close how gigantic pictures are built from shards of stone, marble, and glass no bigger than a fingertip

next stop: Mauseleo di Galla Placida, drab on the outside maybe....

but stunning inside -- dense, dark, colored depictions of saints and martyrs, heaven and hell, illuminated mostly alabaster windows

it's adjacent to the Basilica di San Vitale

this is one of those gasp-inducing public buildings that people come to Italy to gape at -- incredible density of mosaics and frescoes, from marble floor to high domed ceiling

we also made a stop at the tomb of Dante, who finished The Divine Comedy in Ravenna

judging from her mechanical delivery, Luciana has given this tour hundreds of times -- she had the disconcerting habit of beginning each spiel with "Ladies and gentlemen...." The first time she said it, she looked around and realized there were no ladies in our group -- but she didn't bother to edit herself after that.when we got back to Bologna, the Festival of San Petronio (the city's patron saint) was in full swing -- in Piazza Maggiore, Roman connected with his pen pal, Mauricio, to watch the fireworks

 

the display windows for some of the design studios in Bologna look like sets for a David Lynch movie

Photo diary: Exploring Sensual Bologna, day 2

October 11, 2011

we spent the morning delighting our olfactory senses by walking through the market district with its fresh pasta, smoked meats, cheeses, fruits, vegetables, flowers, coffees, and herbal teas

in Italy, you select your produce by pointing and letting the grocer handle the stuff -- they're serious when they say "Don't touch, we cut your hand"

everybody picked up some goodies and we converged at Osteria del Sole, an enoteca where workmen have lunched since 1465

House rules: no singing or playing

fresh figs, strawberries, persimmons, porcini mushrooms...and wines selected by Graziano

John's shopping triumph of the week: new sunglasses

our local contact, Giovanni, directed us to this sculpture, one of Bologna's artistic high points: Niccolo d'Arco's Il Compianto at Santa Maria de la Vita, terra cotta figures (Mary, John the Evangelist, Mary Magdalene) with facial expressions of stark grief

Giovanni joined us for dinner at his favorite restaurant, Rosteria Luciano

A sanitizing vapour comes out...?

shoes just waiting for a three-legged tranny hooker

Photo diary: Sunday in Firenze

October 11, 2011

Andy in the Oltrarno

 

Tables being set for one gigantic feast -- wedding? block party?

At the Brancacci Chapel in Santa Maria dei Carmine, one of the many astonishing Masaccio frescoes -- much naked male flesh on display, including this scene of "Baptizing the Novices" (wonderful euphemism)

lots of witty street art

the Lilies room at the Palazzo Vecchio

Putti with Dolphin, also at Palazzo Vecchio

Ditto this sculpture, featuring a hold you don't see in most wrestling matches

an unsettling, smirky Madonna with Child from 1430 by an artist with the unlikely name of Maestro Della Crocifissione Griggs

Photo diary: Exploring Sensual Bologna, day 1

October 7, 2011

Ospitalita' San Tommaso, the monastery/residence connected to Basilica di San Domenico

at Santurario di San Luca, the magnificent church overlooking and overseeing all of Bologna, worshipers kiss a replica of the icon of the Virgin Mary, who was crowned Queen and Savior of Bologna

Andy and I basking in the sun on the steps of San Luca

John, Jennings, and Michael

Tim and Larry on the stroll down the hill

the road up to San Luca winds like a snake, and the monument was designed to have 666 porticos to represent the devil (the world) tamed by the power of the Madonna -- pilgrims have been known to walk this path uphill on their knees

on our way back to town, a marching band of bersaglieri suddenly turned the corner with their black-plumed hats and blaring trumpets

I love the funky edges of beautifully designed cities

St. Dominic figures heavily in Bologna's religious history -- at the Basilica, he is surrounded by what Andy decided were his seven vampire brides....

the head of St. Dominic enshrined

the gorgeous ceiling at San Domenico

Larry in the cloister at San Domenico